Ask a Stylist: how to dress for transitional weather

How do I dress for this strange, variable weather we’re having in London? I have never mastered layering.

Blame it on El Niño but the British weather has been rather weird recently. Even I have been caught out a couple of times and have been reduced to shivering on the train platform early evening. 

A lot of women find layering incredibly hard. It is not. It is just about selecting the right weights and styles and understanding a bit about your build in order not to look like you are preparing to trek across the Arctic.

For the working day I have a caveat: layering correctly does require a certain level of planning — either get the clothes set out the night before or build in a bit of extra time in the morning before work. 

Now, for the first layer. I wear a base layer on colder mornings, then remove it once it gets a bit warmer (have a dustbag or suchlike in your work bag and stick the layering top in there). I use the Falke Climate Control T-shirts (£40, falke.com). The neckline is low enough to layer a loose dress, shirt, jumper or buttoned-up cardigan on top and you can remove it if need be. I would choose the nude (vale) colourway for versatility and size down as you want them fitted. They are made of a wicking technical fabric so they work rather well. If you do not fancy this, then Agnès b and American Vintage’s fine jersey and Hanro’s Ultralight tops work well too.

Once you’ve decided on your base layer, seek out a shirt that is semi-fitted or a looser fit to avoid bunching. This Victoria Beckham bib shirt can be worn loose or cinched and pairs nicely with a tailored trouser or smart jean (£294 on sale, victoriabeckham.com). Otherwise Gestuz has this simple men’s white shirt (£100, featherandstitch.com). Team with a pale tailored trouser or a skirt and heels. 

I finish with a simple mac or trench — brace yourself, there are a lot to choose from! On the high street, Barbour and Reformation have decent shapes, while Raey has a modern update with its batwing style (£695, matchesfashion.com). The extra insulation you get from a cotton coat is key for morning and evening.

While we are at it, you need to understand a little about form and shape to nail this layering thing. If you are petite or fuller through the bust (or, indeed, both) keep your layers light and don’t build out too much. If you have a broader shoulder then place scarves and tied jumpers inside the shoulder line; if you’re narrow through the shoulder, you can add a bit more bulk and place them on the outside or edge of the shoulder head.

Lastly, I would recommend a roomy bag — something that can cope with some extra additions without bursting open at the seams. Marfa Stance, Métier, Coccinelle, Aspinal and Coach all have clever, spacious bags. Your very last layer is a fine cashmere scarf — one that will roll up nicely. Fenwick has a few colours in this pretty whisper weight from Begg & Co (£220 on sale, fenwick.co.uk). Or look at this beautiful large version from N Peal (£179, npeal.com). You can drape it around your shoulders or neck in the morning or as needed when the temperature drops.

If you need a reassuring jumper “just in case”, I often use my merino or simple wool knits and tie them around the neck. Choose tonal colours for some quiet luxury or pop it with a bright shade. Max Mara Studio knits come in hot orange, citrus yellow and emerald green (£270, gb.maxmara.com). All of these colours will work with greys, navies and neutrals. 

How about socks and sandals? That’s one I do a lot in spring and autumn weather. If it’s good enough for Miuccia Prada, it’s good enough for me. If you pair an ankle sock with a sandal or slingback it adds a bit of edge, a soupçon of fun to proceedings. The easiest way to get this right is to have tonal socks and shoes. For example, a black or navy sock with a black slingback or a chocolate brown sock with a tan sandal. I know a lot of street stylers have embraced the high white sock and shoe look but that just makes me think of Michelle Dubois from ’Allo ’Allo.

Evenings out are a bit trickier. An oversized blazer is the way to go if you are in a dress or smart trouser. This type of blazer works because of the slightly thrown-on nature — that looser, menswear fit. The trick to making this sing is balancing the proportion — you will need a heel to offset the size and length. I love the Arket hopsack (£149, arket.com). Frankie Shop and Acne Studios do similar versions for a higher price (£600, farfetch.com). Roll the sleeves to control the volume. Trust me, it works. I often hide a very slim cardigan inside the blazer if I am worried about air con or being outside for any length of time. Just try it on and make sure you can’t see the cardigan once the blazer is on.

Being a jacket obsessive, I also own several evening blazers for just such a conundrum. The traditional tux jacket with satin trim is the ultimate evening cover-up — sorry, but the best ones are expensive. Saint Laurent’s single-breasted tuxedo jacket is slick (£2,175, matchesfashion.com), Balenciaga’s hourglass blazer (£3,026, nordstrom.com) with its hip-enhancing cut is a thing of beauty, while Celine’s Jude tux jacket (£1,950, celine.com) is achingly simple. You will own this jacket forever so it’s a true workhouse. Or pick up a jazzy satin, something with feathers like this second-hand one from Yves Salomon (£308, vestiairecollective.com), an embellished jacket (look at Cinq à Sept) or a cape! All of these add to the outfit and you probably won’t even want to take it off.