Unlock the Editor’s Digest for free
Roula Khalaf, Editor of the FT, selects her favourite stories in this weekly newsletter.
I was born in Istanbul and grew up in my grandparents’ house in Yeniköy, a neighbourhood right on the Bosphorus. It’s a special place that has always had a mix of fishermen and business owners – and an ever-changing view of boats passing by. Rumeli, the European side of Istanbul, is more reminiscent of Eastern Rome-Byzantium, while the other side, Anatolia, is considered the heart of Turkey. Both are a mix of Christians, Muslims, Jews, Greeks, Armenians, Kurds and many others. There is an incredible energy because the population is so young and diverse. That happiness is pervasive. It can be hectic here, but the possibilities are endless.
For a city on the water, boats aren’t used enough, which is too bad as the traffic is terrible. I try to travel by water taxi or private boat as much as possible. My perfect day involves getting a tea and a sesame simit in Rumelihisarı – an area full of cafés – and watching the ships on the Bosphorus. We are a coffee country, with so many artisanal shops; I typically start with an americano at Petra Roasting or Cup of Joy.
Tarabya is another popular area. Its name is derived from the word “therapy”, which feels right as there’s a relaxed atmosphere. One of my favourite fish restaurants is Kıyı: in addition to excellent grilled turbot and sea bream, they have an incredible collection of vintage photographs. Bebek Kahve is the place for a breakfast simit with cheese and eggs – it’s a great scene that’s long been a hangout for intellectuals and artists. For a buzzier option, try the Bebek Roof Bar for cocktails.
Galataport is a huge shopping area comprised of shops, two museums and The Peninsula Istanbul, a hotel I designed within a former ship terminal that’s made up of three period buildings and one modern one. Set in Karaköy, this area was once a trade centre for Venetians and Genoese. On one side you have the Golden Horn waterway; on the other, wonderful old streets that feel vibrant with bars, restaurants and galleries of all kinds.
There are many places to stay here: the Four Seasons at Sultanahmet is housed in a prison built by the Ottomans in 1918; Soho House Istanbul is in the former American embassy; and the Splendid Palas Hotel is located on the largest of the Princes’ Islands south-east of the city. For a homier feel, there’s Sumahan on the Water, a 13-room former Ottoman distillery in Çengelköy with views of Istanbul’s European side.
There’s a wide range of culinary offerings too, from Fatİh Tutak’s Gallada, which serves a mix of Far Eastern and Turkish cuisine on a peaceful terrace, to established institutions such as Pandeli in the Spice Bazaar that does the best döner kebabs. Other local favourites include Araka in Yeniköy, Karaköy Lokantası in Galata and Rumelihisarı İskele in Rumelihisarı, a spectacular restaurant because you sit over the water (the calamari is excellent too).
For a big night out I have to mention 29, a bar and restaurant created by me and my husband (now owned by the d.ream group) that sits high above the city and offers views of the city and its dramatic bridges. You’ll often see more women than men out at night now – many of them alone – which is a big change over the past 20 years or so.
When people think of shopping, the Grand Bazaar remains a true reflection of the city. It’s always changing, and it sells the things that Turkish people really want: antique textiles, carpets, sofas and jewellery. It’s what inspired me when I was designing the interior spaces of The Peninsula. Another shop that’s worth a visit is A la Turca, which is packed with antique kilims, glassware and globes. You’ll probably need a guide to get you there.
For smaller boutiques, I like Haremlique for linens and Nishane for home scents. Fey is also great for clothing and accessories, and is curated by Fatoş Yalın Arkun, a former fashion editor with great personal style. The selection mixes Yalin’s own designs with a collection of vintage jewellery.
Don’t visit Istanbul between July and August as it is just too hot. People swim in the Bosphorus from May through November, but I really don’t recommend it for visitors. Winter is serious, but it is also wonderful as there are far fewer people. In any season, more than 15 million people live here collaboratively and productively. I hope that never changes.